TERMINOLOGY&METHODOLOGY

Terminology

A thorough understanding of TONI&GUY’s unique terminology is essential for any TONI&GUY stylist.

METHODOLODY: CUTTING SYSTEM

Methodology is broken down into four key points.

Partings & Sections

Describes how the hair is separated prior to cutting. The 7 part sectioning terms are:

Profile centre forehead to centre nape

Horseshoe recession to recession

Horizontal parallel to the horizon

Diagonal forward angles towards the face

Diagonal back angles backward away from the face

Radial crown to hairline

Pivoting rotating from a central point

Distribution

Describes how the hair is combed in relation to the parting or section

The 4 descriptive terms are

Natural fall combed with gravity

Over-directed anything other than natural fall

‘T’ to the parting perpendicular to the parting

90 perpendicular to the head

Elevation

Describes the level at which the hair is lifted away from the head

The 4 descriptive terms are

0°  in the comb no elevation

1 fingers depth slight elevation

45° midway between 0° and 90° (graduation)

90° perpendicular to the head

Cut

Describes the shape of the line being cut

The 5 terms to describe shape are

Square a horizontal line

Visual a variable line

Parallel a line maintaining equal distance from the head

Vertical perpendicular to the horizontal

Round following head shape

 

 

Basic terminology

Base line- the lowest point and foundation of a haircut

Double base line- working an extra baseline over a shorter area to create a two dimensional effect

Perimeter line- the outline of a haircut

Texture – the surface of any hair i.e. smooth texture – one length bob. Messy texture – scrunch drying

Internal shape – the area inside the perimeter and base line

Recession – the point at the front hairline that grows back the furthest.

 

 

 

Cutting terminology

Block graduation- a fast way of eliminating weight by pulling all of the hair up and out to the same level of graduation

C-Curvature- designing the perimeter line in the shape of a curve

Natural inversion- working a centre area of layering through the centre of the head and pulling all the rest of the hair to this point

One length cut– block cutting is used to create a baseline. The heaviest form of haircutting. Cutting to create one horizontal line that gives the illusion of the hair being one length.

Edging – the scissors are used as a razor to blend a perimeter line from short to long without any graduation.

Pointing – adding texture and removing weight by cutting deep into the section along the hair shaft. Used normally on the surface section of dry hair.

Brick cutting – working shorter pieces of hair into existing layering by cutting in a brick work fashion.

Slicing – the scissors are used as a razor to texturize the ends of the hair, eliminating weight, whilst retaining length.

Perimeter shaping – the perimeter line is created by picking up the hair with the comb and cutting into the line, usually executed on dry hair.

Club cutting – the scissors are used in a piecemeal fashion whilst cutting a baseline to create a straight line. Also used when cutting any section of hair without texture creating a straight line

 

 

 

Blow dry terminology

Rotation drying – using the palm of the hand and rotating it on the scalp, together with the heat of the drier to create volume.

Vent drying – the vent brush is used to create direction and root lift.

Stretch drying – drying the hair with the fingers by lifting the root areas to get a free feeling through the ends.

Power drying – using the dryer at high speed and heat, to create separation throughout the ends

Twist drying – twisting the hair in sections and drying, to create a chunky separated effect.

 

 

 

TONI&GUY terminology

Asymmetric not symmetrical

Basic layering – pull sections out at 90 from the head shape. All hair cut to the same length

Cutting angle – the angle at which hair is held whilst cutting.

Centre point – used as an axis. Determined by placing comb flat on the head, where the comb leaves the head is your centre point.

Centre forehead – the point on the hairline directly up from the nose.

Crown – growth pattern, normally found around the centre point.

Crown area – area that surrounds the crown and centre point.

Convex – an arch which curves to follow the head shape.

Concave – an arch which curves away from the head shape.

Diagonal back – a straight line drawn between vertical and horizontal which travels back away from the head.

Diagonal forward – a straight line drawn between vertical and horizontal that travels towards the face.

Distribution – the way the hair is combed.

Density – the amount of hair on the head per square inch.

Forward graduation – cutting the hair from long to short around the face.

Graduation – a build-up of weight from short too long.

Growth pattern – the direction of hair growth.

Horizontal – parallel to the horizon

Hairline – the point at which growth of hair starts.

Layer – pulling hair out from the head and eliminating length.

Nape – the lowest point of the back of the head.

Natural fall – the way the hair will fall naturally with the head in any position.

Occipital – prominent bone at the back of the head.

Point cutting – the hair is texturized by cutting down into the ends.

Profile shape – the side view of the head.

Profile line – a section taken down the centre of the head.

Porosity – the hairs ability to absorb moisture.

Personalising – whatever technique is needed wether cutting or finishing adapting a style to suit an individual.

Radial sections – pie wedge sections working around the head in vertical sections, pivoting from a centre point.

Razor cutting -a technique used to cut the hair with a sharp blade in a slicing action. This will taper the ends of the hair, eliminating weight and creating movement.

Slide cutting  – this is where the scissors are used as a razor to blend the perimeter line, at the steepest possible angle, from short to long without creating graduation.

Symmetric – balanced, textured, straight or curly, coarse or soft.

‘T’ to parting – perpendicular to the section

Vertical – perpendicular to the horizon

Weight – length where length of hair builds up to create weight.

Weight distribution- where length is built up or reduced to create shape